Fujiyoshida, a town nestled at the foot of Mount Fuji’s “backside” (“裏” / “Ura” in Japanese) in Yamanashi Prefecture, boasts a rich history and a longstanding tradition of unique textile design and manufacturing. The town’s location, altitude, and distance from major water bodies or transportation routes shaped its textile industry, which became renowned for its exceptionally high-quality, lightweight fabrics. These textiles, easily transported by horseback and valuable even in small quantities, led to the development of intricate techniques using extremely fine yarns, such as silk, to produce the highest quality lightweight fabrics.

The region’s distinctive designs were often tailored to the demands of the time when kimono linings (“裏外し” / “Ura-Gaeshi”) served as subtle expressions of individuality without overt displays of wealth. Many of these designs drew inspiration from patterns brought to Japan by Dutch traders, originating from India and other points along the Silk Route. These historical exchanges form the roots of the shared cultural thread between the Dutch and the Japanese under Mount Fuji, dating back hundreds of years.

When designing the textile for the Pavilion, we sought to incorporate key elements and representations rooted in this rich legacy. Engelgeer’s inspiration began with local archival designs, which, at first glance, appear as layered compositions - though this effect is achieved through skilful weaving and colouring rather than actual layers.   Engelgeer wished to highlight the diversity of textiles crafted in Fujiyoshida, combining deadstock fabrics with specially woven and adapted textiles. By focusing on existing designs and taking a circular approach, Engelgeer assembled these elements into a new creation that bears her distinctive signature style.

Engelgeer’s design deconstructs the visual concept of layering, transforming it into actual, tangible layers that allow for veiling and unveiling. This references the unseen, often hidden, qualities of kimono linings, which reveal themselves only under specific conditions or circumstances. The result is a textile that not only honours Fujiyoshida’s heritage but also reimagines it for the Dutch Pavilion of Osaka Expo 2025, bridging past and present through an inspiring and thoughtful collaboration.